Epilogue

Vancouver, September 8th, 2009

Well, it's been a week and a half since that last day of riding. In my last blog, I tried to describe my feelings as I covered those last few miles, and the emotions I experienced as I realized that we had reached the end of the road, and it was time to part company with my new friends. Now that the dust has settled, I re-read my journal, and realized that I did not do justice to the celebrations that followed our arrival.

I described the fiasco of our arrival in Cape Spear on the Friday; how the group managed to get split up at the last minute. This was not the end of the ride that we had wanted, and we were all disappointed that we missed the chance to ride the last few miles together and relish the end of our adventure. However, we all eventually calmed down and realized that it was just one of those things that happens; nobody's fault, and the only thing to be done was to put it behind us and carry on. After a few pints at O'Reilly's tavern, we were all feeling better, and we drank many toasts to our achievement, as well as to the lovely ladies, Valerie and Judy, who had supported us from the home front.

On the Saturday morning, we all returned to Cape Spear with Tom and Della. Out on that windy cape, we congratulated each other, reminisced about the highlights of our trip and took dozens of photos to immortalize the occasion. The sky was blue, the Atlantic was wild and the world was perfect again.

The Hipditch Cottage in St. John's was the perfect place for us to relax and to enjoy the last hours of our time together: cozy and somehow "real Newfoundland" but with enough space to be able to begin our return to normal life and to prepare for the inevitable parting of the ways. In a few hours, the place was festooned with drying laundry, with tents and sleeping bags airing on the deck ("bridge" in Newfoundland parlance).

On the Sunday, we had been invited to Tom and Della's house for another Newfoundland feast, but unfortunately an emergency occurred in their family and this was not to be. We all wish them well, and thank them again for their amazing Newfoundland hospitality.

Sunday dawned with a dose of real Newfoundland weather. Hurricane Danny was passing through, rain was lashing sideways, and we were happy to stay warm and snug in the cottage. Eventually, we ventured out in the car to pick up food and drink for the day. We loaded in codfish, salmon, fish cakes and mussels for an impromptu "last supper", and all sat around the table for hours, eating, drinking and talking over the trip, the world and the universe. A bottle of local rum (known as "screech") let us complete the formalities with a "screeching in", all downing a healthy shot in one gulp to become honourary Newfoundlanders.

And on Monday, it was time for the goodbyes. The van was packed, bikes were loaded, hugs were shared, tears were shed, and Valerie and I waved as our friends disappeared down the winding lane on their trip back to Ohio.

Valerie and I spent one more night at Hipditch. We picked up a rental car, and made a tour of the Avalon Peninsula before heading off on a weeklong tour to explore the eastern part of the province. We had arranged to stay at two more restored cottages, the E. J. Sooley house at Heart's Delight on Trinity Bay, and the Thomas Mouland house in Bonavista. Both homes were furnished just as they would have been fifty years ago when they were occupied by local families.

Our neighbours in Heart's Delight were all related to the Sooley family, and had many tales to tell of their lives and the local history. Everywhere, we enjoyed the friendliness and inclusiveness of the Newfoundland people.

The Mouland House was built 100 years ago, and is of historical significance in the area: Mr. Mouland was a survivor of the 1914 sealing disaster, when 132 men were stranded on the ice and two-thirds of them perished in a blizzard.

We spent a wonderful week, exploring the outport villages, meeting locals and sampling the local cuisine (although I must admit that cod tongues seem to be an acquired taste!) We had to keep reminding ourselves that we were still in Canada - the scenery and culture could easily make you believe that you had strayed to the west coast of Ireland.

So, now we are back in Vancouver with our memories, our photographs and our blogs to remind us that this adventure really happened. I will try in the coming days to respond to all of you who sent so many messages of support during the trip.

This time in Newfoundland was a great way for us to celebrate our coming 38th Anniversary.

Love to all

Barney and Valerie

End Game

Goodbye, dear friends.

Screeching In

The Three Musketeers at Cape Spear

Cape Spear, St. John's: The last ride

Today, 75 km. Total, 3101 km

This is it. The end of the road. The last blog, and the hardest one to write.

We awoke on Friday Morning at Tom and Della's house. The bending trees and fluttering clotheslines in the neighbourhood told us that our old friend the tailwind was here to say goodbye. We loaded up the van, and Judy drove us back out along the Trans-Canada Highway to the point where we had stopped the day before. We unloaded at a highway overpass. Pete, Ryan, Bill and I were riding, and Judy followingin the van.

The wind was constant and about the strongest we have seen. As the road turned, the apparent wind direction would change, but the blast was mostly a cross-tailwind. Following Bill, I could see his whole bike and body leaning into the wind. As we passed embankments or open spaces, we would feel a lull or a renewed blast, both of which would threaten to pitch us off the narrow smooth shoulder into the rumble strip or the gravel berm, and occasionally a strong gust would require a swift reaction just to stay on the bike (later on, we met another cyclist who had been blown right off her bike). But did we fly! For long periods we were doing over 40km/hr, and the rolling hills of the freeway hardly slowed us at all.

Before we knew it, we were descending the steep hill to St. Johns Harbour.

Here's where things went a bit sideways! Somehow, we had lost contact with Judy in the van. We stopped at a traffic light, and Pete went off to look for her. The rest of us retired to a nearby bakery, leaving our bikes outside so that Pete would find us. Right at that time, my phone rang; it was Valerie, who had just arrived at the airport, so we gave her our location and she took a cab to meet us. It was wonderful to see her drive up after our 5 week's separation. After our welcoming hug, Valerie was greeted almost as warmly by Ryan, they had not seen each other since June in Penticton, where they had developed a special friendship.

We went back to the bakery to wait for Pete... and wait... and wait... Later on, we learned that Pete and Judy had come back, but somehow missed seeing our bikes, so they had gone out to Cape Spear by themselves and then headed back to Tom's house.

Eventually, we realized that we were not going to be able to link up. Tom called us and said that he was in the neighbourhood, so he came and met us, and we all decided to head out the 15km to Cape Spear to finish the ride. Tom would take Valerie (and her luggage) in his car.

A fantastic last segment. The road out to Cape Spear is a series of stiff climbs, but my bike seemed to have wings. I have never before experienced the sensation of running up grades that must be around 10% so effortlessly. An ego trip for sure, and my body seemed to be celebrating this final run through the beatiful rugged coastal road. I will never forget it.

Finally, we managed to make contact with Pete, and he drove out from Tom's house with the van to bring us back to town with our bikes.

Before Valerie left Vancouver, she had researched places to stay in St. John's, and had found Hipditch, a little fisherman's cottage right on Signal Hill, looking out over the harbour. Enough space for the whole crew, and time to reflect and celebrate our accomplishments.

And celebrate we did. St John's is a wonderful, vibrant city with a night-lif the like of which I have never seen anywhere. George Street is a city block in which every building is a pub, each with its own brand of live entertainment. Every night the street is closed to traffic, and is thronged with people of all ages, from teenagers to grandparents who are there for one purpose - enjoyment of life. What better place to finish our journey.

We settled on a recommended watering hole - O'Reilly's Irish pub - that just happened to be featuring one of Newfoundland's favourite modern Celtic bands, the Masterless Men, blasting out their own brand of Irish music. The place was packed, the shoulder to shoulder clientel overflowing onto the dance floor, swaying and singing along word for word with every song, parting as necessary to give space to the dancers.

End of ride.

The next three days, we all stayed at Hipditch, decompressing and enjoying each other's company. What an incredible experience this has been for all of us. Pete and Ryan have crossed the entire continent using their own muscle power, well over 10,000 kilometers. How can anyone understand the magnitude of that experience? My congratulations to both of you. And I am amazed at what my old bones have done, 1,100 km in British Columbia in June, and 3,100 km from Quebec City to Cape Spear. And not done the easy way, we chose the mountains of BC, the demanding climbs of Gaspe, detour through the Acadian Peninsula, the challenge of the Cape Breton Highlands and the trek across the centre of Newfoundland - and those are just the parts that I saw. For Pete and Ryan, add the ferocious climb across the Icefields, the lonely spaces of the prairies and the never-ending hills of the Canadian Shield. We can be forgiven for congratulating ourselves on accomplishing what few have attempted.

What incredible good fortune for me to have made that chance meeting with Pete and Ryan in Hope, BC three months ago. When Valerie and I saw these two bikers, dragging their trailers along the main street while I sat in a cafe fortifying myself for the climb up Allison Pass, little did I know what would be in store for me. In those few days that we rode together to the Okanagan, we forged a friendship between us all that I know will endure for the rest of our lives, and when I flew to Quebec to pick up their trail, it seemed the most natural thing in the world.

You have changed my life, Dudes. Pete, with your determination, your ready wit, and your willingness to share your knowledge and experience. Ryan, with your up-beat attitude, your joy in discovering new experiences and your love of life. Thank you for making me part of your great adventure.

Good-bye, Pete, Ryan, Judy and Bill. This adventure is over, but it's not the end of the line. I know our paths will cross again.

And finally, thank you Valerie for your patience and support. Without your help, I don't know how this trip could have happened. You recognized the importance of this trip in my life, and you encouraged me in every step. You let me see the way to make it happen, and I know how hard it was for you to be left alone, especially during the emotional time supporting your dear friend through her own journey.

I hope that you have all enjoyed reading my journal as much as I have enjoyed writing it. As I look back through the pages, I can't believe the variety and richness of this experience, and I hope that I have been able to convey at least some of the wonder of it all. Thank you for your support, my dear family and friends.

My love to you all,

Barney

Pete's blog: www.transcanada09.blogspot.com

Surprise Encounter

Tom and Della, our gracious hosts

A hundred Miles to go!

Whitbourne, NF August 27

Today, 100 km. Total 3026 km

Up late last night IMing with Valerie. She has been making plans for her trip to meet me in St. John's, and now has everything organized. She will be flying overnight via Montreal, and should arrive in St. John's early friday afternoon. I am so looking forward to seeing her. We will stay in YYT for the weekend to celebrate with the crew and take care of getting my bike shipped home, then we will rent a car and spend a few days exploring the coastal towns. Looks like we will have good weather, except for Sunday when the remnant of hurricane Duncan is expected to pass through.

After my late night, I didn't rouse until 7:30, but no matter as everyone else slept in too. Finally got the bikes on the road (Pete, Ryan, Bill and I) at about 10am, immediately hitting some good climbs with a strong cross-wind that kept veering to a headwind. I found this a struggle; my legs were pretty tired, as if they new that the Odessey will come to an end tomorrow. The group stayed together for a few miles, then Pete and Ryan broke away as usual. A bit later, Bill dropped back so I was on my own.

The cross-wind made for some hard riding, especially as the narrow shoulder had a wide rumble strip - every gust tended to push me into the bumps, especially when entering any open area. The constant roaring in my ears was itself tiring, and the wind had a way of turning against me on the many long climbs. I tried to vary my effort by getting out of the saddle, but mostly I would just drop into the lower gears on the middle ring, grit my teeth and crank myself upwards.

Judy did a great job in the support car, constantly feeding me coke and cookies to compensate for my smaller than usual breakfast. Several times, I stopped at hill crests to eat more sugary treats, and I even got into one of the emergency energy gel packs that I bought in Quebec City- this seemed to help.

At one of these refreshment stops, a car stopped behind me, a man got out and said "You must be Barney" Ana amazing thing to happen inthe middle of the Newfoundland back country! Turned out tht it was Pete and Judy's friend Tom with his wife Della. They had driven 100km from St.John's to meet us. We introduced ourselves, and it was as if we were long lost friends.

Tom and Della headed off again to look for the rest of the crew, and I resumed my painful push into the wind. After a while the highway turned from south to east, so the crosswind became a tailwind, an I realized that I was starting to pull the hills in my big ring. However, my legs were still really tired, and I was glad to meet up with the gang at an info centre. We decided to call it a day and drive into St John's for the night to stay with Tom and Della at their house. Tomorrow we will drive back to finish the final 80km of our ride.

Tom and Della have a house in Torbay, North of St. John's with a marvellous ocean view. They are incredible hosts. They sat us all around the kitchen table, and brought bout pot after pot of food, plied us with beer, and stood back to enjoy watching us eat. The meal started with bottled moose ( a kind of tasty stew that is sealed in containers to preserve it) with home-made bread, then poached cod followed by abundant steamed mussels and pan-fried scallops. All of these dishes were copiously refilled. Just when we thought we would burst, in came an enormous paltter of barbecued steak. And last but not least, a tray of my favourite date squares. No fuelling problems for tomorrow's ride!

Tom and Della are fantastic hosts, and kept us entertained through the evening with their lively conversation and Newfoundland humour.

As I write, everyone is turning in - in a few minutes, every couch, bed and section of floor will be occupied by a groaning, snoring satiated figure.

And so to bed. Tomorrow will be the last day of the epic ride, and I will be reunited with my Valerie. I realized today while riding that, after all that I have done, experienced and enjoyed in the last five weeks, I am now ready to finish. What a fantastic trip this has been.

Goodnight all,

Barney

PS Pete's blog, http://www.transcanada09.blogspot.com/

Back to Reality

Clarenville, August 26

Today, 104 km, total 2926 km

A dewey morning. Everybody woke up to find little pools of water on tent floors, and various objects dripping with water. Even Pete and Judy, sleeping in the back of the van, noted that the insides of the windows were steamed up ... but maybe that's another story.

First sound heard this morning was the pumping of the Coleman stove, and by the time my eyes were fully open there was coffee on the go and eggs in the skillet, and Judy handed me a bowl of yoghourt and granola. Thanks, Judy, what luxury!

Definite cahnge inthe wetaher today. The following wind that has served us so well for days`hs swung around, and tody we are pushing into the teeth of it. The weather has turned colder, and the skies are leaden. I broke out the woolen jersey that has been hidden in my gear bag for nearly 3,000 km, and added the goretex jacket to cut the chilly wind.

Our plan had been to make the 140km to Arnold's cove today, which would have made St John's reachable tomorrow, but given the changed conditions, it was obvious that that would be a tough ride. Pete and Bill headed out first, and Ryan and I hung back for a few minutes while he tried to call his daughter, Quinn, on her first day at kindergarten - he missed her by a couple of minutes but left her a message.

Judy resumed her sag duties, stopping every 10 miles to make sure everyone was on track, handing out cookies and soft drinks as needed znd keeping us informed haow evryone else was doing.

We headed off into the wind, taking it in turns to pull and maintaining a decent pace of about 24 km/hr. The terrain was the familiar wooded heathland, with occasional lakes, long false flat climbs with the occasional steeper pitch to keep us warm. After an hour or so, we caught up with Judy and the other riders at a gas station. Bill decided to load his bike on the car, and Pete and Ryan took off at their usual higher speed, while I followed up in the rear. I felt good, but having been accustomed to the rocket boost of the last few days, every rise just seemed that much harder.

Pete has been showing me how to ride out of the saddle, which I find helps a lot on most types of climb. The idea is to shift to a higher gear, then use your weight to pedal with more effort but lower cadence to maintain speed and use a different set of muscles. This has the effect of allowing muscle recovery, and also significant relief for the seat bones. The trick is to keep a controlled pace and a comfortable motion, which doesn't come naturally and needs some practice, but as I work at it I find that it really conserves energy and improves comfort.

Around 1pm, I stopped at a gas station for a coke and some jerky bars, and called Valerie on my cell phone; haven't been able to get a good signal or internet for some time. When I got back on the road, it started to rain, and at the same time the road started to steepen into long straight climbs, pretty hard going given the headwind. By this time, the others had reached Clarenville, and Pete and Judy came back in the car to check on my progress. I waved to them, and they said that they would wait for me at the tourist centre.

When I arrived, Pete asked me if I wanted to press on to Arnolds Cove. I answered ... NO ... and he said that's good because they had already found hotel rooms in Calrenville. So back for a relaxing shower, internet catchup and dinner at the hotel.

Expecting rain overnight and early morning, so we will probably make a late start. We have 180 km left to St John's, which we will split into 2 days. Really looking forward to meeting Valerie on Friday. I can't believe this great adventure is nearing its end, but I'm excited to think of a few day's sight-seeing with my lovely wife.

Until tomorrow

Barney

PS Check Pete's blog at www.transcanada09.blogspot.com

Through Gander Like Corn Through a Goose

Definitive view of Newfoundland from Trans Canada Highway

Gambo, Newfoundland August 25

Today: 148 km, total: 2822 km

Got up this morning to find Pete and Ryan sharing cold leftover pesto penne pasta out of a ziplock bag. Ryan upped the ante by scoffing half a bag of Chunks Ahoy chocolate chip cookies, then declared that he felt sick and that he would drive sag today. Rest of the crew expressed sympathy - not!

Ryan and Judy drove to a gas station restaurant at Bishops Falls, and the rest of us followed by bike. Pete and Bill, who seem to have shaken off their sinus infections, sailed straight by, while I stopped for a more conventional breakfast. Then Judy took of in the van to ride with Pete and Bill, and I carried on solo.

The terrain was more of the customary interior highlands, but conditions were great under a blue sky with the same stiff tailwind, so I kept up a good speed, chasing cloud shadows along the road to Gander. Bill and Ryan met me at the tourist info and fed me Coke and fig newtons, then took off while I hung around to check email.

Sorry to learn that Marilyn Ohrn, Tetrad's receptionist/clerk/everything person was taken ill in the office and rushed to hospital. Best wishes to you, Marilyn, I wish you a speedy recovery.

After my lunch break, I carried on at the same rapid pace. The hills here are still the same long false flats, usually ending in a steeper kick that I could mostly manage in high gear by getting up out of the saddle. Ran into a nasty construction zone where the surface had been ground off for about 10 km. The shoulder was more or less intact, but covered in debris, with abrupt drainage channels cut across the surface so they couldn'tbe avoided. I learned later that Pete had hit one of these at speed, and got a nasty whack on the ankle when his pedal unclipped.

Closer to our destination of Gambo, we ran into a couple of long steep climbs. By this time I ws starting to get tired, so I slowed down and just spun the lower gears. At the Gambo turnoff, I say Judy waving from the overpass, and we turned off on Joseph Smallwood Drive to find the campground that Pete had already speced out. (Note to non-Canadians: Joey Smallwood was Premier of Newfoundland and brought the province into Canada in the 1940s. He was born in Gambo).

The campground is a clean and attractive park forested with small pine trees and a ground cover of moss and what I believe to be Labrador Tea. We all headed off for a great dinner at Shiela's Home Cooking restaurant - I had an enormous meal of split pea soup with dumplings followed by a real turkey dinner and partridge berry pie.

Now sitting at the picnic table. The nights are getting colder, and we have a fire going in the pit. Evidently Fall arrives early in Newfoundland.

No sign of wifi within 50 miles, so I will post this when I get a chance.
Good night
Barney
Pete's blog: www.transcanada09.blogspot.com

Blogging in the Dark

Domestic Scene - Judy and Pete make Pasta

Bill Travels Light

Obi-wan bug shields

Grand Falls-Windsor, NF August 24

Today 114 km, total 2674 km
Here's Barney. Barney is blogging in his tent. No internhet here, so who knows when it will get posted. Blogging in a tent is a pain in the arse. Actually a pain in various body parts, depending on strategy. I can sit upright with the computer between my legs, but with no back support, it soon becomes excrutiating. I can lay on my side and type with one finger (instead of my usual two) which doubles the time. Or I can just say the hell with it, which I have so far managed to resist.

My little one man Hubba tent is actually amazingly efficient. I have quickly evolved a system for setting up. First pitch the tent, then take the gear out of my panniers that I will need overnight - washup kit, non-biking clothes in a mesh bag, washup kit, camping odds and ends like flashlight in plastic bag, and handlebar bag that contains essentials like my camera, cell phone etc. Each of these goes into a specific place, left or right of my feet, and I can find anything I need, even in the dark. I inflate my thermarest sleeping pad, unroll my down sleeping bag, and stuff my clothing bag into my pillow case. My panniers, containing gear not immediately needed (bike tools, riding clothes etc.) are sealed and left outside in the tent's vestibule. That's it. It's amazing how little you really need to live comfortably.

As I sit here in the dark, I can hear the loons calling across a nearby lake. I love that sound.

Our ride today was pretty much a re-run of yesterday, but with blue skies and a few white fluffy clouds. Bill was still a bit under the weather, and chose to drive the sag wagon, and Judy, Pete, Ryan and I headed out at about ten o'clock. Today, I had the happy legs,and had a fantastic ride. Although our route today changed direction twice, starting NE, then turning south and finally east, the wind was cooperative, and we seemed to get a significant boost on every leg. I was riding big ring virtually all day, and working on my out-of-saddle technique on every rise. The result was a non-stop run (feet never touched the ground) of 114 km, at an average speed of 30.3 km/hr. I have never ridden so far so fast in my life.

Arriving in Grand Falls, we hit the Sobeys store and picked up the makings of a fish pesto pasta dish. Judy had brought cooking gear from Ohio in the van, and she cooked us a delicious dinner, washed down with plenty of wine and beer and accompanied by witty and perhaps ribald conversation.

So now, I am ready to don my silk PJs, crawl into my sleeping bag and say...
Goodnight
Barney
Pete's blog http://www.transcanada09.blogspot.com/

Baie Verte

Baie Verte, Newfoundland August 23

Today, 145 km,Total, 2560km

Difficult start today. First sign of life was Bill packing his stuff, of which he has a lot. Bill likes gadgets. Because he isn't travelling self-contained, he doesn't have the same weight restriction as the rest of us. He furnished his spot with collapsible bed, chair, table, as well as a complete bike workshop. Very comfortable and useful, but it requires a fair bit of management skill to get it all packed away each morning. By the time I stuck my head out of my tent, he had everything neetly packed, waiting to be loaded in the van.

It had rained on and off overnight, and the whole site was pretty soggy with squishy mud under the cover of grass. all of our tents were wet from rain and grungy tree drippings on the outside, and from condensation inside, and our clothes and sleeping bags were steamy and humid. I roused myself andstarted packing, but no rush as there waws no sign of activity from anyone else.

The casualty-count from unrelated sinus infections is now three: Pete, Ryan and Bill, so everyone was happy to declared a delayed start. In fact Bill's legs were so shot from yeterday's ride hat he offered to take over sag duty so that Judy would have an opportunity to ride.

Finally got everyone mobilized around nine o'clock, and we drove to The Jungle Jm restaurant at the Comfort Inn, and enjoyed an OK breakfast in the company of stuufed monkeys and fake palm trees.

Finally hit the road at 10:30 for a rerun of yesterday's ride. The Trans-Canada Highway in this part of the province is, let it be said, monotonous. Mile upon mile of moorlands covered with scrubby pine trees and low shrubs. The road runs arrow straight for miles at a time, with long false flat climbs, usually ending in a steeper kick for a couple of hundred metres. We started at a good pace, with me sitting between the rear wheels of Pete and Ryan to get a good draft without being soaked by the spray from the damp road, and we kept our speed in the 30+km/hr range for best part of an hour before I finally got dropped on a steeper climb when I shifted down to my middle ring. The tailwind was still there, a little reduced, and the climbs were a bit milder than yesterday.

Bill dropped Judy on the road about 50 km ahead, the idea being that we would catch her and ride with her, which worked well except that by that time I wasn't part of "we". However, I was having a great ride, and my feet didn't touch the ground until the 90 km mark, at which time my average was 30km/hr - way out of my usual range. Bill was waiting in the van and I stopped long enough to drink a coke then carried on.

The original plan was to ride to Springdale at the 170 km mark, but at 145 km, I caught up with the crew outside a motel. Everyone was tired, and although I could have managed another 30km, I was happy to go with the flow and stop for the night.

We sat outside and had a couple of pops, then went into a dinner of various fried fish features. While we were eating, the first rainstorm of the day got going so we were happy not to be tenting (except Ryan who chose to sleep out back rather that listen to Bill and I snoring).

All talk was of Hurricane Bill, which although downgraded to a category one storm has been causing havoc in the maritime states and provinces, with people being swept away in coastal Maine and evacuations called everywhere. However, current indications are that we will be bypassed.

So with hatches battened, Goodnight all
Barney
Pete's blog www.transcanada09.blogspot.com