End Game

Goodbye, dear friends.

Screeching In

The Three Musketeers at Cape Spear

Cape Spear, St. John's: The last ride

Today, 75 km. Total, 3101 km

This is it. The end of the road. The last blog, and the hardest one to write.

We awoke on Friday Morning at Tom and Della's house. The bending trees and fluttering clotheslines in the neighbourhood told us that our old friend the tailwind was here to say goodbye. We loaded up the van, and Judy drove us back out along the Trans-Canada Highway to the point where we had stopped the day before. We unloaded at a highway overpass. Pete, Ryan, Bill and I were riding, and Judy followingin the van.

The wind was constant and about the strongest we have seen. As the road turned, the apparent wind direction would change, but the blast was mostly a cross-tailwind. Following Bill, I could see his whole bike and body leaning into the wind. As we passed embankments or open spaces, we would feel a lull or a renewed blast, both of which would threaten to pitch us off the narrow smooth shoulder into the rumble strip or the gravel berm, and occasionally a strong gust would require a swift reaction just to stay on the bike (later on, we met another cyclist who had been blown right off her bike). But did we fly! For long periods we were doing over 40km/hr, and the rolling hills of the freeway hardly slowed us at all.

Before we knew it, we were descending the steep hill to St. Johns Harbour.

Here's where things went a bit sideways! Somehow, we had lost contact with Judy in the van. We stopped at a traffic light, and Pete went off to look for her. The rest of us retired to a nearby bakery, leaving our bikes outside so that Pete would find us. Right at that time, my phone rang; it was Valerie, who had just arrived at the airport, so we gave her our location and she took a cab to meet us. It was wonderful to see her drive up after our 5 week's separation. After our welcoming hug, Valerie was greeted almost as warmly by Ryan, they had not seen each other since June in Penticton, where they had developed a special friendship.

We went back to the bakery to wait for Pete... and wait... and wait... Later on, we learned that Pete and Judy had come back, but somehow missed seeing our bikes, so they had gone out to Cape Spear by themselves and then headed back to Tom's house.

Eventually, we realized that we were not going to be able to link up. Tom called us and said that he was in the neighbourhood, so he came and met us, and we all decided to head out the 15km to Cape Spear to finish the ride. Tom would take Valerie (and her luggage) in his car.

A fantastic last segment. The road out to Cape Spear is a series of stiff climbs, but my bike seemed to have wings. I have never before experienced the sensation of running up grades that must be around 10% so effortlessly. An ego trip for sure, and my body seemed to be celebrating this final run through the beatiful rugged coastal road. I will never forget it.

Finally, we managed to make contact with Pete, and he drove out from Tom's house with the van to bring us back to town with our bikes.

Before Valerie left Vancouver, she had researched places to stay in St. John's, and had found Hipditch, a little fisherman's cottage right on Signal Hill, looking out over the harbour. Enough space for the whole crew, and time to reflect and celebrate our accomplishments.

And celebrate we did. St John's is a wonderful, vibrant city with a night-lif the like of which I have never seen anywhere. George Street is a city block in which every building is a pub, each with its own brand of live entertainment. Every night the street is closed to traffic, and is thronged with people of all ages, from teenagers to grandparents who are there for one purpose - enjoyment of life. What better place to finish our journey.

We settled on a recommended watering hole - O'Reilly's Irish pub - that just happened to be featuring one of Newfoundland's favourite modern Celtic bands, the Masterless Men, blasting out their own brand of Irish music. The place was packed, the shoulder to shoulder clientel overflowing onto the dance floor, swaying and singing along word for word with every song, parting as necessary to give space to the dancers.

End of ride.

The next three days, we all stayed at Hipditch, decompressing and enjoying each other's company. What an incredible experience this has been for all of us. Pete and Ryan have crossed the entire continent using their own muscle power, well over 10,000 kilometers. How can anyone understand the magnitude of that experience? My congratulations to both of you. And I am amazed at what my old bones have done, 1,100 km in British Columbia in June, and 3,100 km from Quebec City to Cape Spear. And not done the easy way, we chose the mountains of BC, the demanding climbs of Gaspe, detour through the Acadian Peninsula, the challenge of the Cape Breton Highlands and the trek across the centre of Newfoundland - and those are just the parts that I saw. For Pete and Ryan, add the ferocious climb across the Icefields, the lonely spaces of the prairies and the never-ending hills of the Canadian Shield. We can be forgiven for congratulating ourselves on accomplishing what few have attempted.

What incredible good fortune for me to have made that chance meeting with Pete and Ryan in Hope, BC three months ago. When Valerie and I saw these two bikers, dragging their trailers along the main street while I sat in a cafe fortifying myself for the climb up Allison Pass, little did I know what would be in store for me. In those few days that we rode together to the Okanagan, we forged a friendship between us all that I know will endure for the rest of our lives, and when I flew to Quebec to pick up their trail, it seemed the most natural thing in the world.

You have changed my life, Dudes. Pete, with your determination, your ready wit, and your willingness to share your knowledge and experience. Ryan, with your up-beat attitude, your joy in discovering new experiences and your love of life. Thank you for making me part of your great adventure.

Good-bye, Pete, Ryan, Judy and Bill. This adventure is over, but it's not the end of the line. I know our paths will cross again.

And finally, thank you Valerie for your patience and support. Without your help, I don't know how this trip could have happened. You recognized the importance of this trip in my life, and you encouraged me in every step. You let me see the way to make it happen, and I know how hard it was for you to be left alone, especially during the emotional time supporting your dear friend through her own journey.

I hope that you have all enjoyed reading my journal as much as I have enjoyed writing it. As I look back through the pages, I can't believe the variety and richness of this experience, and I hope that I have been able to convey at least some of the wonder of it all. Thank you for your support, my dear family and friends.

My love to you all,

Barney

Pete's blog: www.transcanada09.blogspot.com