Tilting at windmills

Matane to Ste-Anne-des-Monts, July31
Today 86km, total 519km

Route Planning over Breakfast

OK, yesterday's blog may have been a bit fragmented. That Quebec beer has a kick to it. By the end I was more or less hitting keys randomly, and when I got up from my chair to go to dinner, I was literally ricocheting off the furniture. Pete says he doesn't know me well enough to tell if I've had a skinful, but I told him that is a pretty good indication.

Another thing about that beer, it's fermented in the bottle, with a millimetre of lees in the bottom. As we don't have the luxury of glasses to decant it, we get a pretty good mix of beer and yeast by drinking out of the bottle. Talk about rocket fuel.

I'm having a great time trying out my French. It's like finding that old rusty tool that sat in the bottom of your tool-box for 40 years, polishing it up and finding that suddenly you have a use for it. I don't remember it coming so easily 40 years ago, I think perhaps it's because you get less self-conscious as you get older. I find that I can have reasonably complex conversations; tonight some kids in the campground were asking me about the trip and I was really able to tell them something. I'm actually going to be sorry when the francophone part of the journey ends.

I'm feeling really comfortable riding so far. We are not covering huge distances, mainly because the day's rides are set by the distances between services and camp sites, but it's good for me to acclimatize gradually, and I think the others are appreciating the change of pace too.

Today we began to encounter some more serious climbing. The route is still largely through rolling farmland, but every so often the road rises over a rocky bluff giving a fairly stiff climb (8%) for a couple of kilometers. We still have a nice tailwind, which is good for the ego - cruising at 35km/hr with a heavy load feels pretty good.

Obviously wind is a major commodity in these parts. We have been seeing posters for an international kite festival here next week, and every height of land is sprouting giant wind turbines. These are truly amazing, rising out of the forest and dwarfing the trees and farmhouses. Ryan has already likened my quest to Man of La Mancha, so the windmills are a nice touch.

This afternoon, riding along by myself, I became conscious of a persistant buzzing sound by my right ear. Suddenly, I realized it was coming from inside my jersey. Some insect had flown up my sleeve. I gave him a whack, and was rewarded by a bite or sting, not sure which. I jumped off my bike and ripped off my shirt by the side of the road. must have looked pretty strange. But the critter was nowhere in sight.

Time to head out and forage for some food. Promising little Poissonerie down the road, so we'll be doing a chowder hunt.

Until tomorrow,

Barney

PS don't forget to check out Pete's blog at http://www.transcanada09.blogspot.com/

PPS, Happy 59th Marilyn. I'll raise a glass of Maudite in your honour. XX Barney

Stalking the elusive Tortiere

Rimouski to Matane, July 30
Today: 85 Km, Total: 433 Km

This may be a short blog. Matane is the end of our Route vert trail, and we are staying in a motel on the beach. Pete and I are getting into a couple of boxes of the local brewskis, which are amazing. Maudite at 8% and Au Fin du Monde at 9%, I don't think you will find brews like this anywhere else on the continent.

Last night we were treated to a world-class thunderstorm, just came out of nowhere, and this morning's paper said we had an inch of rain in one hour. A good test of my Hubba tent, I stayed perfectly dry, but not much scope for extra-tent activities. So basically confined to barracks from 8 pm on. Listened to Quebecois music for a couple of hous on my radio, then drifted off to sleep.

In the morning, the rain had stopped, and the St Lawrence was hidden in a thick fog. We could hear the fog-horns of the freighters passing by.

Ryan was the first to rise, and he took off in search of a coffee at a nearby gas station. Pete and I decided to hit the road looking for a more substatial breakfast. After about 20 km, we found a restaurant whose breakfast specialty is the "Gaspesie".

Let me talk about Tortiere. I have been talking this up for a week, the famouse Quebecois meat pie but we havent seen it on a menu anywhere. But the Gaspesie has it all! Not only eggs, bacon, ham sausage, potatoes, but home-made baked beans, pate and a TORTIERE. Probably the best breakfast I have ever experienced.

Inner man satisfied, we hit the road again. That fabulous tailwind is still there, and the kilometers just ticked away to the town of Matane, the real beginning of the Gaspe region. Starting to experience the food craving reported by the other musketeers. Temporarily satisfied by a Sous-marin Gros at the cafe D'Amours.

We decided to make it a short day, and found a motel on the beach. Perfect. 25 metres from our door to the shore.

Tomorrow we get serious. The rolling farmland will be behind us, and into the power climbs of the Gaspe. Thanks for being here with me, Barney

Isle Vert to Rimouski

Isle-Vert to Rimouski, July 29
Today: 103 Km, Total: 348 Km Another tailwind day.
Pete says we're on cruise control. Still generally following highway 132, but detouring off to follow bike-specific routes shown in the Routes verts guidebook. Routes verts is a fantastic network of bike-routes that covers all of Quebec, and it highlights many off-the-beaten track by-ways that offer quieter and more scenic riding. Many of these are dedicated bike-paths, either asphalt or crushed gravel, otherwise they follow secondary highways with wide paved shoulders. This morning we followed a long sgment of farmland backroad through the farmlands, then picked up a gravel trail descending into the town of Trois-Pistoles (Why do the Quebecois hyphenate-all-the-place-names?) The Routes Verts are obviously well-funded ñ this one incuded a new suspension bridge crossing a spectacular seies of waterfalls. From Trois-Pistoles, we cut back to the highway 132, as a section of the route was marked ìnot recommended with a trailerî. One thing that makes riding enjoyable in this part of the world is the approach to the many small towns along the highway. First, you see the tip of a church spire, just above the tree-tops, which gradually expands into a grand church. This gives an amazing perspective to the ride; you really feel that you are going somewhere. Back on the highway, the tail-wind continued to speed us on our way ñ easy to maintain a speed of 35km/hr on the level, often ratcheting up to 40 or 45. Although the riding was fairly easy, just a few short climbs, we were all feeling the heat, so we stopped in the town of Bic-sur-Mer to find a restaurant. Great find. This place had the best fish and chips any of us have tasted, with a unique herbed batter, and a bowl of perfect Gaspatcho, included. It was hard to leave, but we eventually escaped without looking at the dessert menu. Back on the road, we followed the shoreline to Rimouski, which has a very nice waterfront hike and bike path. Unfortunately, thatís about all it has, at least from our vantage point. The city is separated frfom the ocean by a six-lane highway, on the other side of which are rows of ugly hotels and shopping malls. The only exception was the grand cathedral. Rimouski is an industrial city with a deep-water port. Leaving the city, heading east along the shoreline, the ambiance improves immediately. The strip-malls give way to attractive sea-side cottages. We had planned to carry on to the next town, but a couple of miles out, Pete braked suddenly at a camp-site attached to a sea-food restaurant, fish-market and beer-store. End of day! Looks like we may be in for a thunderstorm tonight, lots of rumbling going on. Pete and I are writing our blogs at a picnic table, charging from a generator loaned by our neighbour in an RV ñ negotiated by yours truly in French. It's coming along daily.
Good night to all Barney

Port Joli to Isle Vert

Perfect - micro-brew and a backrub, one location

Chowing down on sturgeon sandwiches

Saint-Jean-Port-Joli to LíIsle-Vert

Today: 130 Km, Total: 245 Km

Woke at 5:30 to feel my tent shaking in the wind. Stuck my head outside, blue sky and the poplars leaning to the east ñ perfect, thatís where weíre going. Soon Ryan appeared, asked me the time (he doesnít carry a watch), says a word about planning to sleep to 7 and then we decide to go for a walk through the village to see what we can find.

St Joli is a pretty village, lots of artsy-crafty stores. We killed some time looking round the graveyard - always educational. Finally, a restaurant opens it doors for breakfast, then back to the campground where Pete is mobilizing.

We hit the road at about 8:30, driven by this massive tailwind, and were soon cruising at 35 km/hour. The terrain is mostly flat with occasional rolling hills and superb views out across the St Laurence, which by now is sea in everything but name. If there were some waves, Ryan would be surfing.

The countryside here is a succession of well-kept farms, as we followed the coastal trail, we saw piles of wooden fish traps, and nets strung on pilings out on the mud flats. A sign said that fishing was in progress for Anguilles, which we later learned are eels.

In one village there were many signs advertizing esturgeon fumee - smoked sturgeon - which we couldnt resist. Fantastic.

We passed through the large town of Trois Rivieres, planning to get in a few more miles. However the next couple of places had no camping, so we frinally stopped about 3pm at L'isle Vert where a private site was advertized. Before going in, we headed downtown, where Pete and Ryan had a prodigous snack in preparation for dinner. I can't believe what these guys eat, but they promise me I will be doing the same thing in a few days.

Popped into the local tavern for a quick pint, then headed for the camp-ground.

Obviously the only game in town, nice enough, but the charged us $18 apiece, which is the worst the guys have seen (last night it was $17 for all three. But too late to go elsewhere, so what can you do - have a loooooong hot shower and make the most of it.

The old legs are holding up pretty well so far. I can keep up with Pete and Ryan on most of the hills, and if I get left behind its usually because I'm lollygagging and looking at the view. It will be interesting to see what I do with the steeper terrain of the Gaspe Peninsula, especially without a sympathetic tailwind.

I'm typing this at a picnic table, using my Petzel headlight to see the keyboard and braving the mosquitos - I'm fortunate that they don't bother me too much. I won't be able to post this blog tonight - no wifi here (what did I expect for the price?)

Until tomorrow,

Barney

Saint-Jean-Port-Joli, Quebec

Quebec city to Saint-Jean-Port-Joli
Today: 115 Km, Total: 115 Km
We’re on our way.
Up and out of the hotel by 8 am. This was the first time that I packed my gear into the panniers. My brain knew that it would all fit, but I had to see it. Weather was overcast, but at least it wasn’t raining.
Valerie, you will find this funny. I have been designated official navigator. So off we went down a beautiful riverside bike path into old Quebec to get onto the Pierre Laporte Bridge across the St Lawrence (Remember Pierre, he was the politician kidnapped and murdered by the FLQ in 1969). So we stopped to ask a passing cyclist in my impeccable French how to get on the bridge and found we were about 10 miles off course. Nothing for it but to backtrack up the river. And what did we see on the way but a ferry service across the river, which saved us twenty miles. So I was the hero after all. If only I had kept my mouth shut about the original mistake.
From the ferry terminal, we followed a bike path along the river – the area is full of these “parcs lineaires”. This one was part of the Routes Verts, the incredible network of bike friendly routes that covers the whole of Quebec.
The bike path eventually morphed into a secondary road alont the south shore, mostly with a respectable shoulder for biking. The weather was still overcast, but nice biking temperature, and we were soon in the countryside, beautiful fertile flood plain with many small to medium sized farms. And villages! Villages are not a part of the Canadian landscape of my experience, but these are the real thing, small self-contained towns, usually focused on a spectacular stone church.
We maintained a comfortable pace today, the terrain is gently rolling, but nothing to stress my softened muscles too much. Pete and Ryan were happy to keep it comfortable after their recent odyssey across Ontario, so we rode as a group most of the day. Yesterday’s brutal easterly had moderated and shifted to a reasonable cross-wind from the south so we were able to cover some decent mileage without too much effort.
About mid-afternoon we ran into a thunderstorm, and took refuge in a roadside information centre, run by a nice young lady called Marie-Pier. She gave us some good traveling tips for things to see around the Gaspe.
When the rain stopped, we came outside to find that Pete had a flat tire, so he set about fixing it as Ryan took off to scout out tonight’s accommodation.
Back on the road, those villages continued to unfold. Pete, who drove this road with his girlfriend Judy two years ago, asserts that in just gets better.
We caught up with Ryan at Saint-Jean-Port-Joli. He had already booked us into a campground next to a restaurant and an ”Artisan” beer-store. Pete and I have already discovered a new fact about Quebec – a huge number of micro-breweries with genuinely great and interesting brews. Pete and I are writing our blogs in the local watering hole, which has local draft and internet.
One thing left to do – eat! I’m really feeling the need for fuel. So goodbye for now, Barney

Historic Quebec City

The walls of Quebec City
Guy Space!

Our Proposed Route - 1650 miles

(Thanks for the suggestion, Norman)

Les Trois MousquetairesBarnos, Petos and Ryanos

Well, we could have hit the road today... But what the heck, last chance to watch the Tour de France, and we can't leave without seeing Quebec City, and it's raining stair-rods, and blowing a gale out of the east.

QC is a great bikable city, designated bike trails everywhere, even the Super 8 motel gave us a trail map. So when the rain let up a little, the three musketeers headed off in the tracks of Samuel de Champlain. We followed the bike trail system down to the north shore of the Saint Lawrence River. Brutal headwind. Sure hope this lets up before tomorrow!

One thing about QC bike trails. Every time they cross a main road, you get a set of traffic lights with pedestrian buttons. But they operate on no principle known to art or science. You press the button and initiate a complex sequence of left and right turn arrows, round and square stop lights, and the traffic begins moving in a strange choreography of near collisions and honking horns. The only thing that doesn't happen is a signal indicating that it is safe for pedestrians or cyclists to venture into the intersection. In the end, we found that it is faster and safer to run for it on your own schedule.

Quebec City is it's own gig (quoth Ryan). So European, ancient stone buildings, winding streets of stores, bars and restaurants, street performers. It's the real thing. I wish Valerie could be here, she would love it. Definitely on the destination list.

So tomorrow, we ride. The weather forcast says rain tomorrow, but we are all in the mood to press on. Looks like the weather will start to improve soon. Goodnight friends, Barney

Breathing Space

The Day Begins...
Still luxuriating in the swanky Super 8 motel. Up early and had breakfast in the lobby. Make your own waffles, a new concept in cuisine with an automatic batter dipenser and a high tech waffle iron that beeps angrily when you make a wrong move, which I did. Then a couple of hours of anxious pacing, wondering if my luggage had been shipped off to foreign parts. And suddenly, there it was, 100%.
I called Valerie from the lobby, and while we were talking, the doors opened, and in walked Ryan. The three Musketeers ar reunited. Ryan had taken an unscheduled rest day in Montreal, enjoying the sights and the ambience, and this morning he had hitch-hiked to QC, Bike, Bob-trailer and all. It was great to see him again, and he is already well rested and feeling good.
We have decided to have at least one more rest day in QC; the guys have really been pushing hard and need some time to recover, and we are expectin the weather to improve on Monday. I'm looking foward to a day exploring in Old Quebec, and I too will benefit from a rest day after the turmoil of last week - even though I have yet to turn a wheel.
This morning I unpacked my bike and re-assembled it. No missing parts, and after a bit of head scratching about the exact purpose of a few nuts and bolts, it's as good as new.. Rode a couple of miles to a local bike store with Pete, who needed some spare spokes, and its good for the trip.
We will be starting off on Monday, heading east along the south shore of the St. Lawrence River. The first few days will be through relatively flat farm country which will give me a chance to get my legs back. After that we will circle the Gaspe peninsula, which promises to be more of a challenge. Then down through New Brunswick, Prince Edward Island, Nova Scotia and finally across Newfoundland. We expect to cover around 3,000 kilometres.
Tonight, Pete and I went to the Chinese buffet next to the hotel, where he gave me a virtuoso demonstartion of his refuelling techniques. Even the waitress was impressed as she cleqared away plate after plate. Actually, I put in a pretty good performance, but I admit to being outclassed in that department. I'm assured that I will become more competitive in the weeks to come.
Now we are all back in the room watching the Ventoux stage of the Tour de France, and trying to undersatnd the French commentary. I have been trying to use the parleevoo since I arrived, with limited success, but the more times I trry, the further I get before my target takes over in English.
Pete is changing a broken spoke. Evidently the Bob trailers put a lot of strain on the back wheel, the guys have been twanging spokes like guitar strings all across the country.
Well, dear diary, I seem to have written a lot for a down-day. Good night, Barney

On the road again! Quebec City, July 24 2009

It’s really happening! I’m back on the road and ready to go.
As those of you who followed my blog in June (http://northwestpassage2009.blogspot.com/) will remember, I had to scale back my original plan to ride coast to coast due to changed work commitments, and instead I did a tour of southwestern BC. That ride was a great experience that taught me a lot about myself, my capabilities and about bicycle touring. One of the great things that happened during that ride was that Valerie and I met Pete and Ryan, two guys from Hudson, Ohio who were on their own Trans Canada journey. Since that time we have kept in touch with them and have followed their fascinating blog (www.transcanada09.blogspot.com).
We have enjoyed their journey vicariously, and I have kept alive the hope that I might be able to pick up their trail and ride with them again. Well, I’m excited to tell you that The opportunity has arrived. A week ago, I decided that things had stabilized on the business front, and that I would be able to free up time to continue my quest. Pete and Ryan are now in Quebec, and after some serious and intensive planning we realized that it would just be possible for me to fly to Quebec City in time tor rendezvous with them. A week is not a lot of time to put together a trip like this, but Valerie convinced me that I could make it happen with her help. Actually “help” doesn’t say it at all, she organized my flight, shipped my bike by air cargo, put together my supplies and kept me focused while I tried to get my affairs in order in the office.
So this morning I found myself, slightly dazed, on a flight to Quebec City and things were on track. Almost. I had a call yesterday to say that my bike had arrived safely in QC. But I had to pick it up by 7 pm, and the depot would then be closed until Monday. And my flight into QC arrived at 6:20. Not much margin. And I missed my connection in Toronto – all flights oversold due to an impending passenger rail strike. Valerie to the rescue again, on the phone to Jean-Pierre in QC Air Cargo, who, it turns out is an avid biker, and he offered to hand-carry the bike to the passenger baggage area so that I could retrieve it. Problem solved. If my luggage had made it to QC, it would have been a home run!
I made it to the hotel at about 8:30, and there was Pete with a cold beer for me. Great to see him, last time was in Penticton BC 6 weeks and god knows how many kilometers ago. Pete did 120 miles today, just to meet me. He has weathered the ride amazingly well, lean and fit and sunburned. Unfortunately Ryan isn’t here yet; he had a tough day yesterday and didn’t make it to their meeting-place in Berthierville. We have heard from him, and he’s OK but he is going to take it easy, and probably won’t catch up until Sunday. So we will spend the weekend assembling my bike, doing some sightseeing and preparing for the road ahead.
Update - saturday morning: Just heard from Air Canada that my baggage has ben located, and it will be delivered this morning. So I can stop biting my nails, get my bike on the road and get in some sight-seeing in old Quebec. A Bientot, mes amis.
Barney