Port Joli to Isle Vert

Perfect - micro-brew and a backrub, one location

Chowing down on sturgeon sandwiches

Saint-Jean-Port-Joli to LíIsle-Vert

Today: 130 Km, Total: 245 Km

Woke at 5:30 to feel my tent shaking in the wind. Stuck my head outside, blue sky and the poplars leaning to the east ñ perfect, thatís where weíre going. Soon Ryan appeared, asked me the time (he doesnít carry a watch), says a word about planning to sleep to 7 and then we decide to go for a walk through the village to see what we can find.

St Joli is a pretty village, lots of artsy-crafty stores. We killed some time looking round the graveyard - always educational. Finally, a restaurant opens it doors for breakfast, then back to the campground where Pete is mobilizing.

We hit the road at about 8:30, driven by this massive tailwind, and were soon cruising at 35 km/hour. The terrain is mostly flat with occasional rolling hills and superb views out across the St Laurence, which by now is sea in everything but name. If there were some waves, Ryan would be surfing.

The countryside here is a succession of well-kept farms, as we followed the coastal trail, we saw piles of wooden fish traps, and nets strung on pilings out on the mud flats. A sign said that fishing was in progress for Anguilles, which we later learned are eels.

In one village there were many signs advertizing esturgeon fumee - smoked sturgeon - which we couldnt resist. Fantastic.

We passed through the large town of Trois Rivieres, planning to get in a few more miles. However the next couple of places had no camping, so we frinally stopped about 3pm at L'isle Vert where a private site was advertized. Before going in, we headed downtown, where Pete and Ryan had a prodigous snack in preparation for dinner. I can't believe what these guys eat, but they promise me I will be doing the same thing in a few days.

Popped into the local tavern for a quick pint, then headed for the camp-ground.

Obviously the only game in town, nice enough, but the charged us $18 apiece, which is the worst the guys have seen (last night it was $17 for all three. But too late to go elsewhere, so what can you do - have a loooooong hot shower and make the most of it.

The old legs are holding up pretty well so far. I can keep up with Pete and Ryan on most of the hills, and if I get left behind its usually because I'm lollygagging and looking at the view. It will be interesting to see what I do with the steeper terrain of the Gaspe Peninsula, especially without a sympathetic tailwind.

I'm typing this at a picnic table, using my Petzel headlight to see the keyboard and braving the mosquitos - I'm fortunate that they don't bother me too much. I won't be able to post this blog tonight - no wifi here (what did I expect for the price?)

Until tomorrow,

Barney