Thursday, July 30, 2009

Stalking the elusive Tortiere



Rimouski to Matane, July 30
Today: 85 Km, Total: 433 Km

This may be a short blog. Matane is the end of our Route vert trail, and we are staying in a motel on the beach. Pete and I are getting into a couple of boxes of the local brewskis, which are amazing. Maudite at 8% and Au Fin du Monde at 9%, I don't think you will find brews like this anywhere else on the continent.

Last night we were treated to a world-class thunderstorm, just came out of nowhere, and this morning's paper said we had an inch of rain in one hour. A good test of my Hubba tent, I stayed perfectly dry, but not much scope for extra-tent activities. So basically confined to barracks from 8 pm on. Listened to Quebecois music for a couple of hous on my radio, then drifted off to sleep.

In the morning, the rain had stopped, and the St Lawrence was hidden in a thick fog. We could hear the fog-horns of the freighters passing by.

Ryan was the first to rise, and he took off in search of a coffee at a nearby gas station. Pete and I decided to hit the road looking for a more substatial breakfast. After about 20 km, we found a restaurant whose breakfast specialty is the "Gaspesie".

Let me talk about Tortiere. I have been talking this up for a week, the famouse Quebecois meat pie but we havent seen it on a menu anywhere. But the Gaspesie has it all! Not only eggs, bacon, ham sausage, potatoes, but home-made baked beans, pate and a TORTIERE. Probably the best breakfast I have ever experienced.

Inner man satisfied, we hit the road again. That fabulous tailwind is still there, and the kilometers just ticked away to the town of Matane, the real beginning of the Gaspe region. Starting to experience the food craving reported by the other musketeers. Temporarily satisfied by a Sous-marin Gros at the cafe D'Amours.

We decided to make it a short day, and found a motel on the beach. Perfect. 25 metres from our door to the shore.

Tomorrow we get serious. The rolling farmland will be behind us, and into the power climbs of the Gaspe. Thanks for being here with me, Barney

1 comment:

  1. Friday morning. 6.38am Sarah's carers due any minute. First day for days we've woken to clear blue skies. Should get out on the bike for half-an-hour while they are here. Breakfast meeting in prospect. At Nonna's - Italian coffee and restaurant - what passes for chic in Sheffield. Nice place. Meeting up with another parent, she active in campaigning for autistic children. Looking forward to that over a cappuchino. Talking buildings insurance later. Carers here. Have a great day in the mountains.

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