Quebec city to Saint-Jean-Port-Joli
Today: 115 Km, Total: 115 Km
We’re on our way.
Up and out of the hotel by 8 am. This was the first time that I packed my gear into the panniers. My brain knew that it would all fit, but I had to see it. Weather was overcast, but at least it wasn’t raining.
Valerie, you will find this funny. I have been designated official navigator. So off we went down a beautiful riverside bike path into old Quebec to get onto the Pierre Laporte Bridge across the St Lawrence (Remember Pierre, he was the politician kidnapped and murdered by the FLQ in 1969). So we stopped to ask a passing cyclist in my impeccable French how to get on the bridge and found we were about 10 miles off course. Nothing for it but to backtrack up the river. And what did we see on the way but a ferry service across the river, which saved us twenty miles. So I was the hero after all. If only I had kept my mouth shut about the original mistake.
From the ferry terminal, we followed a bike path along the river – the area is full of these “parcs lineaires”. This one was part of the Routes Verts, the incredible network of bike friendly routes that covers the whole of Quebec.
The bike path eventually morphed into a secondary road alont the south shore, mostly with a respectable shoulder for biking. The weather was still overcast, but nice biking temperature, and we were soon in the countryside, beautiful fertile flood plain with many small to medium sized farms. And villages! Villages are not a part of the Canadian landscape of my experience, but these are the real thing, small self-contained towns, usually focused on a spectacular stone church.
We maintained a comfortable pace today, the terrain is gently rolling, but nothing to stress my softened muscles too much. Pete and Ryan were happy to keep it comfortable after their recent odyssey across Ontario, so we rode as a group most of the day. Yesterday’s brutal easterly had moderated and shifted to a reasonable cross-wind from the south so we were able to cover some decent mileage without too much effort.
About mid-afternoon we ran into a thunderstorm, and took refuge in a roadside information centre, run by a nice young lady called Marie-Pier. She gave us some good traveling tips for things to see around the Gaspe.
When the rain stopped, we came outside to find that Pete had a flat tire, so he set about fixing it as Ryan took off to scout out tonight’s accommodation.
Back on the road, those villages continued to unfold. Pete, who drove this road with his girlfriend Judy two years ago, asserts that in just gets better.
We caught up with Ryan at Saint-Jean-Port-Joli. He had already booked us into a campground next to a restaurant and an ”Artisan” beer-store. Pete and I have already discovered a new fact about Quebec – a huge number of micro-breweries with genuinely great and interesting brews. Pete and I are writing our blogs in the local watering hole, which has local draft and internet.
One thing left to do – eat! I’m really feeling the need for fuel. So goodbye for now, Barney
Today: 115 Km, Total: 115 Km
We’re on our way.
Up and out of the hotel by 8 am. This was the first time that I packed my gear into the panniers. My brain knew that it would all fit, but I had to see it. Weather was overcast, but at least it wasn’t raining.
Valerie, you will find this funny. I have been designated official navigator. So off we went down a beautiful riverside bike path into old Quebec to get onto the Pierre Laporte Bridge across the St Lawrence (Remember Pierre, he was the politician kidnapped and murdered by the FLQ in 1969). So we stopped to ask a passing cyclist in my impeccable French how to get on the bridge and found we were about 10 miles off course. Nothing for it but to backtrack up the river. And what did we see on the way but a ferry service across the river, which saved us twenty miles. So I was the hero after all. If only I had kept my mouth shut about the original mistake.
From the ferry terminal, we followed a bike path along the river – the area is full of these “parcs lineaires”. This one was part of the Routes Verts, the incredible network of bike friendly routes that covers the whole of Quebec.
The bike path eventually morphed into a secondary road alont the south shore, mostly with a respectable shoulder for biking. The weather was still overcast, but nice biking temperature, and we were soon in the countryside, beautiful fertile flood plain with many small to medium sized farms. And villages! Villages are not a part of the Canadian landscape of my experience, but these are the real thing, small self-contained towns, usually focused on a spectacular stone church.
We maintained a comfortable pace today, the terrain is gently rolling, but nothing to stress my softened muscles too much. Pete and Ryan were happy to keep it comfortable after their recent odyssey across Ontario, so we rode as a group most of the day. Yesterday’s brutal easterly had moderated and shifted to a reasonable cross-wind from the south so we were able to cover some decent mileage without too much effort.
About mid-afternoon we ran into a thunderstorm, and took refuge in a roadside information centre, run by a nice young lady called Marie-Pier. She gave us some good traveling tips for things to see around the Gaspe.
When the rain stopped, we came outside to find that Pete had a flat tire, so he set about fixing it as Ryan took off to scout out tonight’s accommodation.
Back on the road, those villages continued to unfold. Pete, who drove this road with his girlfriend Judy two years ago, asserts that in just gets better.
We caught up with Ryan at Saint-Jean-Port-Joli. He had already booked us into a campground next to a restaurant and an ”Artisan” beer-store. Pete and I have already discovered a new fact about Quebec – a huge number of micro-breweries with genuinely great and interesting brews. Pete and I are writing our blogs in the local watering hole, which has local draft and internet.
One thing left to do – eat! I’m really feeling the need for fuel. So goodbye for now, Barney
Thanks for the map Barney. Do you have any sense of how far it is to St John's?
ReplyDeleteHey, it's only 5.30 in the morning here in Sheffield. Can't read at that time! See its 1650 miles. Wow! That's even further than 1200 I did to Budapest - and I was young then - about 50!
ReplyDeleteHi Barney - we are living it with you here in UK. Sounds fantastic and to think my baby cousin is doing such an epic journey at such an advanced age! Makes our cruise round the UK next week pale in comparison! Lotzaluv from us both. Take care. Carole & Stan xx
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